Wednesday, 22 October 2014

Good Life in New York


Upper East Side from inside The Met
Well a little over a month ago we managed to squeeze a few days of New York into a recent trip. It's somewhere I've always wanted to go and it was way better than I expected so thought I better actually write about it before it's a distant memory!

Maybe I was expecting a concrete jungle (or filled with mobsters and muggers!).  Instead we found New York to be a vibrant urban tapestry full of 'interesting' and mostly friendly locals, something functional etched into every spare space and an energy about the place that's amazing.

New York is somewhere I've seen a thousand times in movies and TV shows, so it definitely feels familiar - like you know the place. (New Yorkers are all too happy to point out the spots for you if you can't figure it out for yourself, like where Carrie Bradshaw filmed Sex and the City and there's a sign at Katz's deli above the chair where Sally (as in When Harry Met Sally) had her famous fake orgasm!)
Street view from the High Line

In no particular order, here is the checklist of things we got through and some general impressions.

Out and about:
Walking along the High Line
Best walk: The High Line,  an old abandoned overground railway line has been converted into a walkway that spans about 20 city blocks, this is the ultimate use of dead space.  I wish they'd do something like this with Auckland's abandoned Nelson off ramp!
Central Park
Central Park: It really is as cool as it looks on TV.  Talk about orderly.  There is a road all the way around and you can only cycle one way.
Brooklyn Bridge: the other great walk.  It really just has to be done, even if you only walk half way.
Selfie on the Brooklyn bridge
A Broadway Musical: OMG I didn't think I would like this!  We saw The Book of Mormon, a brilliant comedy and worth checking out.  You can put your name in for a lottery but because this show is new and popular, there were 10 seats for 200 people.  Instead we waited in the cancellation queue and got some amazing seats at a much lower price.
Washington Square

We took most modes of transport while we were there, which was easy as.  We mostly walked everywhere but most impressive was the cycling. We stayed in Chelsea at Hotel Americano, which was a fantastic and relatively reasonably priced place, and they had bikes for the guests.  We biked all the way up the Hudson River one day and all the way around Central Park.  You can rent bikes everywhere.

Museums and memorials
9/11 beam the plane went through in twin tower
New York has the best collection of stuff anywhere except maybe Paris.  Each one deserves a reasonable amount of time so there was no way we could fit them all in.  The ones we did:
Only at The Met
9/11 Memorial.  Do you still remember where you were on 9/11? This will take you straight back. It's pretty powerful and there's nothing quite like the sense of place and perspective this gives.
The Met. It's huge! It's full of notable artefacts, exhibitions and famous paintings.  We spent 2.5 hours there until closing time and that was way too short.
MOMA: If I had to pick, this was my fave.  It was hard for me to comprehend that all of the Warhol's, Monet's, Picasso's, Lichtensteins, (etc, etc, etc) where the real thing, all in one place.  There was so much to take in.  The cafe served some of the best coffee in New York and is far removed from the average museum cafeteria bad food experience.
Marilyn at MOMA
Classic Warhol

Monet at MOMA - incredible


We cycled past the Gugenheim, but that and the Fick will have to wait for the next visit.

Food
This is a heavenly city for lovers of cult American food. The big ticket items live up to all expectations:
Hungry?  Get your pastrami sandwich at Katz!
Pastrami Sandwiches: Katz's deli really is the best.  We had a few others but Katz's was in a league of its own. With piles of pastrami on rye, pickles and a root beer it was heavenly.
New York Cheese Cake: We walked to Sarge's deli after our broadway show.  The Rueben was great but the Cheese Cake was the main drawcard.  The waitress got Al to have a glass of milk with it which strangely cut through the creaminess of the cheese!
New York Cheese Cake - Heavenly!

Bagels for breakfast: You gotta have the 'Schmear' (cream cheese) on a bagel.  They are pretty awesome.
A New York staple at Murray's Bagels
Pork Bun at Momofuku Milk Bar.  These were pretty yum and David Chan is world famous for these but you know, the bun place in Northcote Point would give it a run for the money.
The list goes on, but lots of great little places everywhere though two others of note would be the degustation we had at Le Bernardin, a 3 star Michelin Restaurant and the wacky foie gras soft taco with American Cheese we had at Earl's Beer and Cheese.  OMG.  Foie gras twice in a matter of days it both times were amazing.
Earl's Beer and Cheese in the Upper East Side.
Foie gras soft taco.  So wrong but so right!


As for drinks, well I managed to fit in the compulsory Cosmo on the rooftop bar at our hotel.  Very shee shee.

Compulsory Cosmo on the rooftop bar


Shopping
Stop me.... Oh what a pleasure.  Well, let me qualify that. The big department stores you can take them or leave them quite frankly.  At Bloomingdales I practically felt harassed as I think all the sales people are on commission.  But the shops on the upper east side, e.g. Tiffany's and every designer around, were just beautiful.  I actually loved Soho best though with lots of little shops in the side streets where I may have got a bit excited at DKNY and Dianne von Furstenburg.

There's just too much to see and do to get through everything, so in 4.5 days I thought we experienced a great cross section of the city. We didn't go up the Statue of Liberty but we could see it from lots of the places we went, and we didn't go up any buildings but our hotel's rooftop bar afforded some cool views, so we'll have to leave those for next time.

Well, New York, I fell in love.  I could easily go back.
City scape
Our subway stop



Calexico - a very popular food truck


outdoors at MOMA

Cool city scape from inside MOMA


Yes, tacky - these really are the SATC steps

Al enjoying some Jewish street food at Taim


Cool street art

New World Trade Centre

9/11 Memoria Fountain

Underground at 9/11 memorial - the slurry wall and last beam



More fun in Central Park


Selfie at Momofuku milk bar

Central Park

Monday, 21 April 2014

The Good Life in Margaret River

More than a year ago we won a trip to Margaret River, Western Australia through our wine shop, First Glass so in March the 4 of us hopped on a plane to Perth (about the same time as MH370 most likely landed in the same area!?).

In 1965 a gent by the name of Dr John Gladstone wrote a report that declared the Margaret River, just south of Perth, had conditions similar to that of the Bordeaux region in France and hence the planting of vines began and is now synonymous with great Cabernet Sauvignon.   Margaret River has a much steadier climate than Bordeaux so the vintages are either great or even greater.  Only 2006 is deemed a poor vintage, so not a bad run. They also produce exceptional Chardonnays and although I'm not a huge fan of Sauvignon Blanc or Semillon the Margaret River blends are actually rather pleasant, so all in all it's a region that definitely appeals to me!

There are a number of fantastic cellar doors and the level of service as a region is amongst the best we've experienced to date in Australia.  Everyone presented their wines in Riedel glasses, and most presented their entire range of wines, even the more expensive reserves.

Here's the list we visited that I'd be happy to recommend:

The well known superstars:
Xanadu, Cullen, Leeuwin Estate, Vasse Felix, Howard Park(prize for most impressive cellar door), Cape Mentelle, Brookland Valley, Juniper, and Voyager Estate

Barrel tasting at Xanadu
On top of the tanks at Xanadu

An enjoyable tasting at Cape Mentelle



The 'finds' -  a bit more of a boutique experience (and the reason we go to the wine regions):

1. Brown Hill (which we almost didn't go to, but the Stella Bella people recommended it, which also had some great wines). It was just a corrugated iron shed with a charming proprietor who is an ex Kalgoorlie miner and his winemaking son. They have some amazing Cabernets and also Shiraz Cabernet blends which are mostly 5 star 90+ points from James Halliday. They pretty much only sell at cellar door and mail order but well worth getting your hands on if you can find some.

The 'Flash' cellar door
2) Woodlands, which is once again nothing too flashy, just a tasteful, understated cellar door, with absolute knock out wines
3) Hay Shed Hill, which is now run by the ex winemaker from Howard Park and it was great to have a chat with him about the trials and tribulations of being a winemaker in the area.

4)Last but not least was Pierro, the king of Chardonnays.  OMG, what a fabulous wine.
Found this poster at Pierro - beautiful
Note - we visited Moss Wood as well, who have amazing wines, but I wouldn't go out of my way to go back to the cellar door.
Al and I and the wild Indian Ocean

The whole WA area does have the western frontier feel about it.   Perth is an amazing city and there were definitely some cool non wine things to do (Mammoth Caves were a real surprise!) and the foodie experiences were pretty up there - every night we split a dozen oysters between the 4 of us and we also discovered fresh figs with jamon/prosciutto and blue cheese. This has now become a favourite.

I'd definitely go back and at some stage, I'd love to take the dogs and spend a few months driving up the coast in a camper van. Western Australia - a cool place worth exploring.
Busselton Jetty - 1.8km long and the longest in the Southern Hemisphere

One of Al's many artistic shots

Prevelly Beach - a famous surfer mecca

Mammoth Caves - one of many limestone caves in Margaret River



Bunker Bay

Painting at Perth Art Gallery

Cool art installation at Perth Art Gallery

Meatballs for breakfast at The Tuck Shop in Perth -
Jo is right, if you put a fried egg on it, anything can be served as breakfast!

Yummy coconut and banana smoothie served up in the coconut

Surf Competition at Scarborough Beach, Perth